Monthly Archives: June 2010

The Original Warlord Build Pt.2

the original intent all along was to make a steel plate cocoon from front to back. with the way the steel bell housing was built and tapped on the back side- and the dimensions of the flange i had on the tail housing, the cocoon idea just didn’t seem practical this time around. not to mention i would need a custom shifter to fit around a steel cocoon, and that was a turn off.

So i elected to use 1/2″ solid steel rods with rod ends. this was a simple solution and had enough variance to make up for the angle issues from the outside of the rear flange to the back of the housing.S3700005 i then took 3/4″ flat stock, cut it into short pieces, then drilled them 2 directions. one direction was drilled 1/2″ for the 1/2″ bolt holes in the back of the housing, and the other 3/8″ for the rod end diameter.

S3700010the flange was then tapped in 7 more spots(in addition to the two bolts on the bottom hooking the mid plate to the bottom of the tail flange), as you can see from earlier post’s, to accomodate the rod ends. the rods themselves as i said before, are solid 1/2″ steel. As it turned out the ideal length turned out to be about 15 1/2″ from front to back. i then chucked em into the lathe to drill and tap fine thread for the rod ends. the rod ends were purchased through summitracing.com. one end is tapped reverse thread, so adjustment is simply done by spinning the rod instead of unbolting one end and spinning the end. i feel this is a real half-assed cheap way so i spent the 85$ for the reverse thread tap. i tell ya what i was glad i did it.

S3700006Fitting 5 rods tight to the case was a not near as bad as i thought it would be. with the freedom of adjustment with the housing adapters and adjustable rod, it made clearing all the vital things somewhat of a breeze once i got it all set up.S3700007 i ended up flipping the governor cover inside out along with grinding a bit of the right side of the case to fit the rod tight to the case in order to get the cooler line fittings to clear right. the pipe dipstick just barely cleared once i got the rod tight to the case on the lower right hand side.

one concern about the rod ends is the fact that they swivel, which could allow the case to still twist and crack. the steel mid plate is meant to absorb a lot of the twist, and i felt the primary job of the support rods was more to relieve the stress from the car bending vertical rather then rotational strain. plus there are 5 of them, so the rods have a tendency to triangulate once they are preloaded, even though they have swivel ends.

S3700011the transmission mount i came up with was a simple weld-on mount drilled on the bottom for a regular rubber tranny mount. the tail piece is so damn strong you probably don’t a tranny mount at all, just use a truck u-bolt and put it right on the crossmember. My theory was you put it in the car and weld your tranny mount pad to your transmission crossmember location rather than deal with modifying the crossmember all the time. the feedback i got though indicated that having a mount pedistal that could move from one end to the other of the tail piece would be awesome. toward the base for crown vics and toward the rear for old iron. for this summer and this prototype i am just going to weld the bitch and go, but the next model i am working on WILL have a removable tranny mount pedistal that relocates the mount to the crossmember rather than the crossmember to the tranny.

S3700004

is 2.5 hrs run time on 6 gallons of gas possible

so, i read something on the internet about this. i was busy over the weekend and now cannot find the exact article, but i believe the claim was that the guy running at the end of the feature heat of a demolition derby  had 4 gallons of gas left in the tank after running 2 1/2 hrs in a feature event. The rules clearly state a 10 gallon fuel tank capacity. Many people have made the statement that this is clearly not right. So i decided to crunch a few number.

so lets start with the obvious we have the following variables:

6 gallons of gas consumed, which by weight can vary a bit with fuel quality,but a good average for the weight of pump gas is 6lbs per gallon, and there are 16 oz in 1lbs.
6 gal X 6lbs X 16oz = 576 oz of fuel consummed

the modern gasoline engines burn at a ratio of 14 parts air to 1 part of fuel. actually true stoichiometric mix ideally is 14.7:1 but it usually ends up being 14:1.

so basically we just need to plug and convert the figures. Air/fuel ratio, or AFR for short, is determined by the weight of air divided by the weight of fuel.
AFR= Mass of air / Mass of fuel

or to get what we are looking for

mass of fuel X AFR = mass of air used

576 oz X 14 = 8064 oz of air

the CRC book of chemistry defines air as 1.2 oz per cubic foot. there are many other variables that effect the actual weight, measured using a barometer commonly, as well as relative humidity, but for the end result in this case, it is not going to effect it as much as you think.

8064 oz of air / 1.2 per cubic ft =6720 cubic feet

now 2.5 hrs= 150 minutes

which then means the said car was consumming a whopping 45 CFM.

do i believe this is possible to do with a V-8 chevy, yes, at idle. honestly this is an average cfm for a given time frame so obviously at times we can have full throttle and dead idle situations.

One thing to keep in mind is at 14:1 AFR, that is IDEAL conditions to get that ratio. this is why auto makers use electronic fuel injection, and sensors like the mass air flow sensors and throttle position sensor to bring an element of precision to the metering process to the induction process that simply cannot be achieved with a carburetor- let alone a carb in a demo derby. Relative air weight is probably less in the midwest  than the figure i used as i believe the 1.2 oz number uses sea level. I believe it is a pointless arguement cause it is obvious that the numbers are so far off from making any kind of  real power worth bragging about is ridiculous.

so then lets go 10 gallon at 1 1/2hr. to spare you all the bullshit, it works out on paper to an average of 125cfm. this is a lot more believable number using a SBC with a 350cfm carb geared rear axle, and smart driving, for derby use in a 5-6000lb. station wagon.

you don’t make horsepower without feeding the horse. it’s that simple. so don’t let anyone bullshit ya!!!

The Original Warlord:Pt1

Well, for thise of you that don’t know or never will know, a few years ago i undertook a brainstormed project of the ultimate derby transmission that not only would not break internally or externally…….but would also serve as the main structural member of the center of the car and keep the front end from bending upward.  since it’s inception nearing 3 years ago, many products have been introduced to try and copy it, and none of em have quite gotten there yet. it was ahead of it’s time in the sport of demolition derby and to be quite honest, there may never be a transmission built quite like it ever again due to rules changes and modern times. i will never know for sure but i suspect that this thing eventually led to several rules changes as it inspired drivers/builders to push this area of car building to the next level.  so from here on out is a chronical of the build and the results. enjoyt ans thanx- Bomber 1/24/2012

Stock aluminum bell housing failure  is a very simple case of torsions from the rampant forward-reverse shifting cracking the case. It is a common failure in snow plow trucks for the same reason, as well as trans brake applications in drag racing. However the tailshaft issue has nothing to do with the shift, and has everything to do with having a slider driveshaft and a terrible pitch to the driveline (i.e. chevy V-8 in a crown vic). It is a fact that 70% of rear aluminum case/tailhousing failure come from newer ford installations with chevy engines, and the way these cars bend. i believe it has nothing to do with the length of the tranny itself or a tailshaft hitting the dirt. The failures through my shop that do not come from crown vics usually find themselves with a slider shaft/yoke issue.

374721888 it became obvious that the Brian Nerat one piece cv yoke is the way to go if you need a piece for your slider. i have had many different versions through the shop- even made my own a few years back. Last fall one of my test trannys went out and literally came back in a rubbermaid container in 7 pieces. he used the Nerat yoke. i chucked it in the lathe and was somewhat shocked to have only .003″ of runout. it was literally the only thing from the engine to the rear wheels that made it back undamaged!!

So i decided to see if i could build a tranny that could stand up to a slider shaft explosion- so to speak. Since i sold my drag race car last fall i had to come up with something else to tinker with! the place where i started was the tailhaft housing. i then simply had the simple stratedy to anchor the stronger tailhousing to the back of the engine to take the strain off the transmission case.

Well after pondering a few different directions, i met my Friend Bob Kinney, a retired aerospace engineer. he ran his own machine shop for many years and sold it off, but has a small shop in his barn. Bob claims that there hasn’t been a space schuttle launch in the last 20 years that didn’t have a part he built on board. After work one day late February, i stopped by his shop and had a few beers as we looked at a housing to come up with a design.

383115969To make a long story short, i made a comment along the lines of,”I am not worried about weight just make something that won’t break!”…..and he did. It started as a a piece of 7″X1″ thick solid steel for the flange- and an 8″ long X 4 1/2″ thick solid piece of steel for the length of the housing. It was machined- welded to one piece- then machined some more. when it was all said and done with it weighed 75lbs and felt more like an artillary shell then a tail housing. In machining, there were some funky things that gm did. like the 6 mounting bolts for the housing are not based off the centerline of the tailshaft. And, as anyone who has tried to find one, a common roller bearing to fit a gm yoke as i had intended is not cheap or easy to find. so it retains a stock 1 1/2″ brass bushing for the yoke.

So now what in the hell do i do with this thing i just paid 750$ for? Well i decided that i would build a mid plate to extend between the oil pan and the bottom of the case, similar to a mid plate between the engine and bellhousing. it serves 2 purposes: strengthen the case and help glue the big tailhousing to the back of the case. I first tried using 1/8″ but had to build a second plate out of 1/4″ as the 1/8″ wasn’t near re-did enough to cut the mustard.

Well, now what do i do for a Bell housing? I had heard Brian Nerat was working on a steel bell housing, but decided to work on trying to glue the JW ultrabell onto the tranny better. i found a steel bell housing from an outfit in iowa, but it was over 500$ and to be honest it looked kinda cheesy for what i needed it to do. The ultrabell is a great solution to the torsional stress of derby, but it can still rip off the case behind the pump as the car noses. So i bought an ultrabell and began fitting the mid plate forward beneath the bell housing with the intent of extending it up between the engine-then back over to make a top brace. i never took a picture of this stage of the build as i ended up using the ultrabell for a customers tranny, then shevled the mid plate and tail housing to be forgotten about til this fall. it was time for Spring explosion, so everything got put on hold.

I ran into Brian Nerat at a sporting event….and his new Steel bell housing. To be honest it reminded me more of a charcoal grill for tailgating than a bell housing. but it was the perfect mate to the ridiculously heavy tailhousing i had built…..and affordable. So when i got home with it, i decided to hack off a weld repaired bell housing chevy case. i had built it for full manual shift, more of a drag racer’s set up, but why not!! this project is already in left field as it is! i bolted the tail stock on and cut the mid plate to fit. i was actually somewhat astounded- it almost balanced out from one end to the other!! 387544802 S3700008My friend Kevin Cutler of hillbillyspeedshop had made me this one off custom oil pan a long time ago as a gift, so in a pinch for time, i decided to put his pan on the set up. i had intended to make a 1/4″ custom pan using the mid plate, so the mid plate is the oil pan, but i ran out of time. Metal Mayhem was less than 3 weeks away and i wanted to have this thing done and working. so i buttoned up the mechanicals and put on a coat of paint.

Alright now i have a tranny!! BUT….i still need bracing from the bell housing to the other 3 sides of the tailhousing, and a transmission mount.