The Original Warlord Build Pt.2

the original intent all along was to make a steel plate cocoon from front to back. with the way the steel bell housing was built and tapped on the back side- and the dimensions of the flange i had on the tail housing, the cocoon idea just didn’t seem practical this time around. not to mention i would need a custom shifter to fit around a steel cocoon, and that was a turn off.

So i elected to use 1/2″ solid steel rods with rod ends. this was a simple solution and had enough variance to make up for the angle issues from the outside of the rear flange to the back of the housing.S3700005 i then took 3/4″ flat stock, cut it into short pieces, then drilled them 2 directions. one direction was drilled 1/2″ for the 1/2″ bolt holes in the back of the housing, and the other 3/8″ for the rod end diameter.

S3700010the flange was then tapped in 7 more spots(in addition to the two bolts on the bottom hooking the mid plate to the bottom of the tail flange), as you can see from earlier post’s, to accomodate the rod ends. the rods themselves as i said before, are solid 1/2″ steel. As it turned out the ideal length turned out to be about 15 1/2″ from front to back. i then chucked em into the lathe to drill and tap fine thread for the rod ends. the rod ends were purchased through summitracing.com. one end is tapped reverse thread, so adjustment is simply done by spinning the rod instead of unbolting one end and spinning the end. i feel this is a real half-assed cheap way so i spent the 85$ for the reverse thread tap. i tell ya what i was glad i did it.

S3700006Fitting 5 rods tight to the case was a not near as bad as i thought it would be. with the freedom of adjustment with the housing adapters and adjustable rod, it made clearing all the vital things somewhat of a breeze once i got it all set up.S3700007 i ended up flipping the governor cover inside out along with grinding a bit of the right side of the case to fit the rod tight to the case in order to get the cooler line fittings to clear right. the pipe dipstick just barely cleared once i got the rod tight to the case on the lower right hand side.

one concern about the rod ends is the fact that they swivel, which could allow the case to still twist and crack. the steel mid plate is meant to absorb a lot of the twist, and i felt the primary job of the support rods was more to relieve the stress from the car bending vertical rather then rotational strain. plus there are 5 of them, so the rods have a tendency to triangulate once they are preloaded, even though they have swivel ends.

S3700011the transmission mount i came up with was a simple weld-on mount drilled on the bottom for a regular rubber tranny mount. the tail piece is so damn strong you probably don’t a tranny mount at all, just use a truck u-bolt and put it right on the crossmember. My theory was you put it in the car and weld your tranny mount pad to your transmission crossmember location rather than deal with modifying the crossmember all the time. the feedback i got though indicated that having a mount pedistal that could move from one end to the other of the tail piece would be awesome. toward the base for crown vics and toward the rear for old iron. for this summer and this prototype i am just going to weld the bitch and go, but the next model i am working on WILL have a removable tranny mount pedistal that relocates the mount to the crossmember rather than the crossmember to the tranny.

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